时尚业至今尚未触及其中的任何一角

作者: 关于我们  发布:2019-09-05

走近时尚赛博格

GUCCI、数码模特和虚拟网红

GUCCI, Digital Models, and Cyborg influencers

The Cyborg Effect

当时装秀正在走向平庸,Gucci的创意总监Alessandro Michele却总能出其不意地惊艳到我们,本季,时装秀真的是从“头”开始的。在宛若手术室的秀场中,薄荷绿色的墙面、手术台和手术灯一应俱全。“坐在一排排塑料椅上的嘉宾恰似世界末日的见证者,目睹着手术后的半人半兽大摇大摆地走在他们面前。”€€€€Yatzer

When we believe fashion shows can get mundane, Creative Director of Gucci, Alessando Michele,never stops surprising us with the unexpected where this season they took turning heads to a literal meaning. The show took place in a sterile, mint green operating surgical lab-like environment, complete with operating tables and surgical lighting. “ Sitting on the rows of plastic chairs, guests became in effect witnesses to the apocalyptic aftermath of a series of surgical procedures that produced the trans-human creatures strutting in front of them.”-yatzers

人们每天都会接触到虚拟世界或游戏机,拥有多重线上身份,却不曾想,时尚业至今尚未触及其中的任何一角。

The virtual landscapes , gaming consoles, and online identities in which millions of people engage with daily around the world has yet been untapped by the reaches of the fashion industry, till now.

游戏里的你既能遵守虚拟现实里的规则,又能轻松打破各种界限,施展你天马行空的想象力,正如创意无限的Gucci2018秋冬时装秀。

Apply the rules of virtual reality whilst breaking down social boundaries as you can so easily do with gaming, and you’re given inspiration to build limitless imaginative creations as shown byGuccithrough their AW 2018 collection.

Altered Carbon

这场华丽的赛博格时装秀将游戏、神秘气息与手术技巧及未来主义相结合,不禁让人联想起网飞的科幻新剧《碳变》,剧中人们的身体和思想意识经过数字化储存后,可以传递于不同躯体。

Theglamourous cyborg show, mixing gaming andmystical fantasieswith surgical tech and futurism reminds us of the futuristic sci-fi action Netflix series Altered Carbon, where one canphysically and materially be anyone as consciousness can now be digitized and stored. One can live eternally wearing different sleeves.

Altered Carbon

抛开时装秀的娱乐成分,Gucci亮出了新境界,模特们捧着自己的一比一“人头”从手术室里鱼贯而出,有的头上长角,有的是三只眼,还有的手抱灵物:小飞龙、蜥蜴和珊瑚蛇。

Putting fashion show entertainment on a new level, we’ve seen models walking out of the surgical roomcarrying out life-sized replicas of their own heads down the catwalk. One model grew a pair of horns; another had sprouted a third eye on her forehead whilst others held baby dragons, iguanas, and coral snakes.

基于现实生活的虚拟世界随着科技的发展日渐成熟,虚拟和现实生活的界限日益模糊,当我们还在贪婪地攫取地球资源的时候,机器人正逐步在智商和学识上获得碾压性优势,而这一切的发生可能比我们预想的还要快。Gucci的赛博格时装秀隐喻了人们内心的担忧:缓慢迈向后人类时代的我们面对未知世界产生的深深恐惧。

Indeed, the blurred lines between virtual and real life continues to erode as advances in technology are made to replicate the behaviour of real life. The day robots take over human kind in intellect and knowledge may be closer than we think as we over consume and use the earths limited recourses.The Cyborg runway implicitly tell us tells us Gucci’s connection with this new energy some may fear: fear of the unknown, fright and cruel intentions, as we slowly approach the post-human apocalypse.

Gucci AW19

Digitalized Supermodels

数码超模与虚拟网红

赛博格的形象一直被时尚界津津乐道,如:设计师André Courrèges于20世纪60年代缔造的太空时代,以及前卫派设计师Paco Rabanne、Iris van Herpen等。然而,曾经还从Odysessy身上找灵感的设计师们,现在更愿意贴近现实。

Fashion has always been fascinated with the image of the cyborg tech, taking André Courrèges’ 1960s Space Age ladies to Paco Rabanne, Iris van Herpen, etc. however what was an inspiration for designers from theOdysessy now bears resemblance to a much closer reality.

Lil Miquela Instagram

随着虚拟网红的出现,2018年可谓是赛博格的元年,其中Lil Miquela不仅在Instagram上拥有50多万的粉丝,还签约了Chanel。

In 2018, cyborgs are a thing with the birth of virtual influencers like Lil Miquela , who’s gained half-a-million Instagram followers and collaborating with Chanel, Diesel, Mararet Zhang etc...

全球首位虚拟超模Shudu的诞生引发了强烈争议,她其实是不存在的,而是摄影师Cameron James-Wilson根据南非芭比公主电脑合成出来的。Cameron的灵感源自多为女性:“Lupita、Duckie Thot、Nykhor和Alek Wek,她们的美伴随着我的成长,给我带来了巨大影响”€€HighSnobiety。Shudu的走红始于一张涂有Fenty Beauty推出的橘色口红硬照,Rihanna甚至转发了这张图作为官宣,引发了网友们的关注度与好奇心。

Shudu, the first ever digital super model who’s caused strong controversy hinging around the fact that she’s not actually real, but a project from photographer Cameron James-Wilson who was inspired bySouth African Princess Barbies. Cameron’s real-life inspirations are pulled from different women €€ “Lupita, Duckie Thot and Nykhor €€ even throwing it back to Alek Wek, who was a massive influence on how I saw beauty growing up.”-HighSnobiety. Her fame recently started when she rose the attention of Rihanna who showcased her on themakeup line,Fenty Beauty,digital Campaign last March catching the serious attention of fans who didn’t

understand where this new model came from.

Fenty Beauty x Shudu

如此看来,真人模特是否会被“完美的”电脑成像模特取代呢?个人认为是完全有可能的,但终究得取决于技术的发展,毕竟实现虚拟模特的户外走秀要花点时间。

Is this possibly signalling a potential shift from IRL human models to “perfect” CGI replacements for campaigns? I personally think its possible, but more for massiveOOH campaigns due to the technicalities and time CGI takes to create detailed CGI Models.

DuckiOfficial

同时,真人网红也开始另寻他法,在虚拟世界求得一席之地。坐拥950万粉丝的旅行博主Alexis Ren新晋为《最终幻想XV:新帝国》的代言人,该游戏公司以Alexis为原型制作了相应的游戏形象。

On the other hand , *IRL influencers are also starting to be more cyberfamous, each in their own ways; travel blogger Alexis Ren, with 9.5million fan base, recently teamed up with one of thelargest gaming companies, Final Fantasy XV , where they’ve created her own avatar for the game, A New Empire.

Alexis Ren x FFXVMOBILE

还有一些小众的、以怪诞著称的朋克网红:@Matierefecales、@ryburk、@isshehungy等,他们用独特的方式诠释了赛博格现象。当最初的幻想逐渐成为现实,消费者受到网红的影响,也开始购买类似的服装、化着类似的妆。

On a more niche factor, a clan of eccentric punk influencers such as @Matierefecales, @ryburk , @isshehungy , and the likes have their own expression for cyborg alien infusion. What first appeared to be a fantasy is slowing merging into our reality with fans being enticed into buying clothes /makeup off these influencers.

Michele打造的Gucci赛博格,描绘出一个荒诞不经又拥有无限可能的世界,在那里穿什么、怎么穿完全取决于我们自己,无关其他。

Michele’s Gucci Cyborg sets the blueprint for a chimeric world of emancipatory possibilities where what we wear and who we are is entirely up to each one of us and no other.

面对当下水深火热的政治环境,设计师可能很难透过服装展现出积极乐观的一面,但却可以用梦幻的手法来展望未来。我们眼看着无人机和AI技术充斥着各大时装秀,电脑成像代替真人模特,Ins留言尽是些虚拟网红。反观走在Gucci2018秋冬秀场上那些不真实的“生物”模特,不恰好象征了数码产业给时尚业带来的巨大影响吗。现在看来,反抗科技的发展似乎为时已晚,我们能做的只有欣然接受,利用科技的力量创造更美好的未来。

Fashion may not be able to offer much positivity in response to the political dystopia which surrounds us currently, but it can offer a show fueled with fantasy to create a visual representation of our future situation. We loom closer to the days drones and AI flood the catwalk, avatars replace human models and our Instagram feeds are saturated by virtual influencers.

The array of virtual reality like ‘creatures’ to grace the runway at Gucci’s AW18 is a testament to the impact the digital industry has on the world of fashion. It seems a little too late now to fight away the advances in technology, instead it is best we embrace the change to come and use it as a tool to build a better future.

IRL= in real life

CGI= Computer generated imagery

JINNNN Show wearing Eytys shoes and Missy Skins

Wearing Gucci, Moschino, and Sue Comma Bonnie

撰文:Abithaa Santhiramathavan

编辑:Yanie Durocher

Photo Source/ 图片来源:Vogue UK , Hypebeast, Shudu's instagram, HypeBeast, HighSnobiety, Gucci Instagram, The Guardian, Lil Miquela Ins, Ducki Official, Yatzer,Alexis Ren Instagram, isshehungry Instagram, Matierefecales Instagram etc.

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