Calvin Klein 18/19秋冬系列
Calvin Klein AW19 -Runway Apocalypse
Make America Great Again:
Calvin Klein AW18/19
If you dream, you dream of magic, you dream of hope and promises, of a world where fair exists in abundance, but sadly reality brings you back, and for you the only dream is the antiquated ‘American dream’.
Recently appointed Creative Director for Calvin Klein, Raf Simons’ three-part trilogy came to an end at Paris Fashion Week, which started with his inaugural presentation for the American fashion behemoth a year ago. Over the last 12 months, Raf has shed light on the nation divided by politics and socio-economic factors through his love for fashion.
The fragrant smell of popcorn filled the air as Kaia Gerber elegantly took to the catwalk, which had been camouflaged by the popped kernels. The popcorn symbolized Hollywood with the associated health benefits and low-fat content, but between the lines you could see it’s reflection of the corn fields of the Midwest which once produced the largest amounts of corn and cinema, which sadly is no more. Like the rest of America, it too is a plummeting economy depicted to be on its verge of an apocalyptic mess.
Kaia Gerber x Calvin Klein PFW
America’s economy has shown and continues to display signs of turbulence, like that of an airplane when faced with strong winds and unexpected weather changes that could crash at any given time. These sudden and unplanned disturbances represent the country’s political movements over the past year. The country’s wealth status and economic situation was highlighted further by the designer’s choice to host this year’s Calvin Klein AW18 runway in the American Stock Exchange building in New York.
Calvin Klein诠释的好莱坞梦工厂表面光鲜亮丽，背后却千疮百孔。品牌借助荧幕上的标志性人物进行创作，以此致敬英雄和反派角色。如同美国恐怖片一般的服装设计，反讽了美国糟糕的现状。Andy Warhol的“死亡与灾难”系列也是此次大秀的灵感来源，作品零零落落地挂在阴森的陈列室里，强调了美国这是在咎由自取。
The brand explained how the dream factory of Hollywood may look like the perfect playground for the all-powerful American dream but behind its’ doors lies hidden an alleyway to the American nightmare. Calvin Klein played tribute to some of thriller’s heroines, heroes and antiheroes by creating a collection of iconic figures as seen on the big screen. Taken from some of America’s scariest and successful horror movies, being shown to us in a time when Modern America appears more sinister than ever. This further depicted through Andy Warhol’s ‘death and disaster’ collection seen dotted around the bleak looking room making a point of America’s craving for destruction.
Safe Thriller- Todd Haynes -1995
说到本系列的灵感来源，就不得不提Todd Haynes在 1995年创作的恐怖片《安然无恙》。展后，人们戴着白色面罩和护目镜进行清场，以表对原作的致敬。影片揭露了环境病的危害，女主是一位南加州的家庭主妇，突然有一天出现了流鼻血、呕吐、剧烈抽搐的症状，而她患的正是21世纪的环境病。该病的疑似患者只要身处现实世界和环境，就会出现严重的过敏症状，正如美国人民的现状。地面上厚铺的爆米花更是加深了该寓意，仿佛是在斥责当下严峻的政治和环境形势。
One of the collection’s main influences was a 1995 thriller directed by Todd Haynes - Safe. The post show clean-up was carried out by men in white masks and goggles, an oddly fitting tribute to the film. The film divulges into the effects of an environmental illness on a suburban Californian housewife , whose symptoms range from nosebleeds to vomiting and aggressive convulsions. The disease she’s plagued with is the “Twentieth Century Disease”. Suspected sufferers of this condition display acute hypersensitivity to just living in the real world, and inhabiting our environment, rather fitting to today’s America. Arguably the popcorn carpet deepened this symbolism, as a comment on the world’s noxious environment both politically and environmentally.
时装秀采用了The Mamas and the Papas的California Dreamin’作为配乐，歌词讲述了一个寒风萧瑟的冬季，身处东海岸的我渴望到洛杉矶享受暖风的故事。这首歌始发于1960年夏季，一经发行便被视为“爱之夏”西进运动的代表作。Raf之所以将这首歌选作背景音乐，正是想借历史上的政治动荡时期，鼓励人们保持积极乐观的心态来面对艰难时刻。
The show’s soundtrack featured extracts of California Dreamin’ by The Mamas and the Papas where the lyrics tell a story of someone longing for the warm breezes of LA during a cold winter on the East Coast. When the song first came out during the summer of 1960, it was seen to represent the mass pilgrimages that took place during this summer of love. Raf’s choice to have this song play in the background of his show encourages hope and positivity during these turbulent moments, in the history of American politics.
Calvin Klein 2018秋冬系列避开了大量使用拼接画的设计，仅存的图画元素都被用在了针织衫上。印着歪心狼和哔哔鸟卡通形象的超大号针织衫套在外套外，与上一季的美国梦魇稍有不同。不过，可别忘了动画片《兔八哥》里老生常谈的枪战和自杀问题，此举正迎合了当下呼声最高的管控枪支立法问题，毕竟佛罗里达枪击案造成了17名高中生的惨死。
Calvin Klein’s AW18 collection stayed away from printed imagery for the most part, except when incorporating pictorial elements into the knitwear. Two over-sized sweaters which gave off the impression they were inside out, with Wile E Coyote and Road Runner printed on the front of each were a little different to last season’s blood enriched American horror show. However, let us not forget Looney Tunes slapstick and blasé portrayal of gun violence and suicide, all the more current with calls for legislation on gun laws to be changed are being fought for in America now, following the recent shooting in Florida that killed 17 high school students.
CK Collection AW18/19
This season, we saw the word ‘drug’ emblazoned on t-shirts, sweatshirts and knee patches, screaming ‘LSD’ and ‘XTC’ directing attention to America’s Opiod epidemic, which according to USA today could claim 1 million lives by 2020.
经Raf 执掌的Calvin Klein新秀色彩艳丽，反衬出现实中“美国梦”的破碎。好在Calvin Klein也未将全部精力放在嘲讽上，毕竟给这个全美家喻户晓的品牌更新了logo，为摩登设计营造出新空间。同时，Raf在模特的选用上也下足了文章，邀请卡戴珊姐妹拍摄圣诞内衣广告，由A$AP Rocky说唱团体演绎最新单品恰是最好的证明，一步步引导Calvin Klein朝着更纯粹简单、轻松无忧的方向发展。
The show was a colourful spectrum of Raf’s newest collection for Calvin Klein whilst highlighting the bleak reality of the American dream. It is not all a negative parody however, as Calvin Klein has shown it is throwing out the logo branded underwear for a renovation, creating space for a modern design. The recent Christmas collaboration with the Kardashians confirms just this. Whilst using trademark patchwork prints to cover the well-known American household name, Raf had chosen to go with a more current team of models- the Kardashians and A$AP Rocky Crew, to spark the start of his revolution for on a more light-hearted note.
#MyCalvins Campaign with Kardashians
#MyCalvins Campaign with A$AP Crew-AWGE
The American dream may be a sobre and disappointing one , but Raf’s dream is a pleasant surprise we cannot wait to see more of over the next coming months.
Raf Simons, Designer and CD of Calvin Klein
撰文：Abithaa Santhiramathavan 编辑：Yanie Durocher
Photo Source/ 图片来源：Vogue, Hypebeast, Highxtar, AnotherMagazine, Cosmopolitan, Google, 1843 mag, Calvin Klein, L'Observateur, IMDB etc.
至美永恒 --Beauty is Forever
致：渐行渐远的传统文化 Angel Chen 2018春夏米兰时装周
独家专访GARETH PUGH, 疯癫尽头的华丽SS18