在《银翼杀手2049》里也有大量皮草大衣的镜头

作者: 关于我们  发布:2019-09-05

垃圾摇滚风的鼻祖竟是风尘女子

Grunge Street Fashion owning it to the worlds oldest profession; Prostitution

着电影产业的发展,人们对娼妓的成见也稍有改观。在上世纪60、70年代,招妓多指那些误入歧途的年轻男女。

Attitudes have changed through the years when we think of how prostitution has been portrayed in films. In the late 60’s up to the late 70’s, prostitution was portrayed as an operation that entrapped young women and men.

19th century prositute in a brothel

影片《午夜牛郎》诠释了一个由颓废都市孵化出的庸俗职业,《出租车司机》揭露出风尘女子柔弱不堪的一面。到了上世纪90年代至21世纪初,由于《风月俏佳人》《红磨坊》等影片的走红,娼妓与嫖客的身上多了几分浪漫色彩,妓女装也就此在时尚界寻得一席之地。

Midnight Cowboy conveyed it to be a sleazy profession for a sleazy world, and Taxi Driver illustrated the vulnerability women were exposed to them in the industry. However, by the 1990’s and early 2000’s prostitution got romantic thanks to films like Pretty Woman and Moulin Rouge, where the look of a hooker has remained in our closest since.

性交易本身的确饱受争议,是否将其合法化也有待商榷,但至少有一点值得肯定,那就是她们也是辛劳的工作者。这一行虽说“污秽不堪”,但就算是寒风刺骨的夜晚,她们也还坚忍不拔地站街;平日里情同姐妹、相互扶持,所以从这个角度说,她们多少感动到了我们。

The profession itself may prove controversial at dinner parties especially if thoughts on legalising prostitution again is to be discussed, but we cannot take away from them, that these hustler chicks word for their money. In this business, as ‘dirty’ as it can get, they prove to be resilient standing on the sides of roads even on the coldest nights; They stick together, support one another in this closely-knit community like a sisterhood cult, and quite frankly this inspires us.

Sharon Stone and Robert De Niro

在出演《本能》之前,Sharon Stone扮演了一位看似手足无措、对生活毫无准备的角色,但却拥有把男人迷得神魂颠倒的魔力。影片中有一幕特写:女主角穿着奢华的皮草与演员Robert de Niro卧床相拥,床上铺满了金银首饰。同样,在《银翼杀手2049》里也有大量皮草大衣的镜头。

Before her role in Basic Instinct, Sharon Stone played a woman who although seemed nervous, and unprepared for what was to come, she noticed the power behind being her sex and it knocked men senseless. The scene of her lying in bed with actor Robert de Niro in oversized fur surrounded by an abundance of gold is a look that caught on quickly andmanaged to stick around, with more pimped fur coats seen in 'future' with Blade Runner 2049 in parallel to the runway shows from Fendi, YSL to Gucci and streetwear.

Blade Runner 2049

FEMALE EMPOWERMENT

一套性感内衣是每个女人的必备单品,无论这背后的灵感是否源自风尘女子,它依旧是自信与自爱的代名词。正如Love Magazine杂志的年度日历大片,几位好莱坞大牌身着惹火睡衣,散发着性感的荷尔蒙,以女性之名,扬女性之威。

太阳2下载,Sexy lingerie is a must have for all women, it represents confidence and self-love, helping to exude sexual liberation as promoted by Love Magazine’s annual advent calendar which sees Hollywood A-listers dressed in provocative lounge wear in the name of female empowerment.

若有这样一位女性,一边为下一部影视大片潜心背词,一边身兼模特拍摄性感内衣大片,想想还是很振奋人心的。她们激励了女性不光要有智慧,还要有喷血好身材。性解放一直是个令人争论不休的话题,而当女性为自己的傲人身姿而荣时,就没有什么还需要解放的了。

There is something about seeing a woman who may be in the middle of learning lines for her next blockbuster hit, whilst also balancing modelling shoots in her spare time, seen dressed in sexy lingerie that is quite inspiring. It creates a community of ladies willing to empower one another and support those that want to flaunt their bodies. Sexual liberation is the topic of debate, and there is nothing more liberating for a woman than celebrating her body and seeing others do the same.

只要影片中能穿,那么现实生活中当然也能穿。

If it's good enough for cinema, it's good enough for the streets.

”“

“设计师眼中的性工作者有股倔劲儿,” Visionaire创始人James Kaliardos说。“她们的客户亦父、亦师,亦或是其他任何职业,但依旧不妨碍她们展露妖娆的一面”

“Designers make reference to sex workers to communicate toughness, there is an understanding that their client can be a mother, teacher or other professional and still want to armor herself in fetish wear’ says said James Kaliardos, founder of Visionaire.

处于当前愈发压抑的政治环境下,穿着PVC,哪怕只有一点类似于恋物癖的配饰,都会被冠以反叛的称号。然而这并不是妓女装,而是展现了一个能够适应社会、敢于尝试又自得其乐的新女性形象,最重要的是,她们不在乎社会规则。平日里的她也许是一个朝九晚五白领,但一到周末,她便换上最短的裙子、最招风的皮草大衣、最惹火的细高跟,因为她不甘平庸,就是要树威。

In an increasingly repressive socio-political climate, dressing up in PVC with a hint of fetish accessories is a sign of rebellion, or the chosen association with the hooker. It is no longer the look of prostitution, but the look of a woman who is able to adapt and experiment whilst having fun and most importantly not giving single fucks on societal rules . She may work a 9 to 5 job in office wear, but on the weekends, she’ll wear her shortest skirt, the biggest fur, and the most daring pair of high heels because she’s ambitious, unwilling to conform and here to make an impact.

尽管“妓女装”俗不可耐又过时落伍了,与现实中卖淫女的着装也毫无相似之处,但即便这样,它还是照样火爆,“成为活动、秀场、演唱会、银幕中以及奢侈品牌时尚大片中的常客。”

Although the “hooker” look is cliché and dated, bearing little resemblance to what many prostitutes actually wear in the reality, these images have proliferated just the same, “a common trend we can see during events, runways, concerts, on theater screens and in a flurry of luxury ad campaigns.”

如今的“妓女装”分很多种,可谓等级分明,从顶级模特如Saint Tropez,到普通陪同,再到女友般形象,当然,还有更具体、更丰富的划分。

Escorts and prostitution today are divided in a series of categories, almost a hierarchal form, from the racing Elite Saint Tropez like models, to formal escort attire, the girlfriend next door look, and of course something much more elaborate and extensive.

“今天的时尚受到了妓女的影响,”电影《堕落街传奇》的戏服设计师Anna Terrazas说,“而不是反过来。”-《纽约时报》

“Fashion right now is influenced by hookers,” said Anna Terrazas, the costume designer of “The Deuce.” “It’s not the other way around.” -NY Times

嘻哈歌手喜欢借用“妓女装”彰显力量,通常游离于时尚与性感的边缘。Cardi B毫不避讳自己曾是“脱衣舞娘”的身份,反而视其为一种历练,Lil Kim, Iggy Azalea同样也是如此。

Pop performers endorse the look as an assertion of power, often treading a fine line between owning their sexuality and trading on it. Cardi B, a retired “stripper-ho,” as she boasts, glamorizes prostitution, the same with Lil Kim, Iggy Azalea and more.

我们经常能在时装秀场上看到半露酥胸、穿着热裤、脚踩过膝靴的Nicki Minaj,她在《PAPER》杂志冬季刊“攻破互联网”上的封面硬照便是最好的证明。

Nicki Minaj, is often caught at fashion shows wearing lace-up hot pants, over-the-knee boots, to leather shirts showcasing half of her chest. Her latest front cover of Paper Magazine Winter Mega Issue on “Breaking the Internet” says everything.

Nikki Minaj on Paper Magazine Winter Mega Issue

总的来说,时尚源于街头服饰,却又不如妓女、暴徒、溜冰者和纯粹的街头混混诠释的彻底,而这些人诠释出的时尚反而成了主流。如今,垃圾摇滚风步入正轨,受到了前所未有的关注度。€€Tom and Lorenzo时装博客

Fashion in general is always borrowing from street wear, and it doesn’t get more street wear than hooker thots, thugs, skateboarders, and pure raw street-cult. Those references are mainstream now. "Hip hop grunge has also now been normalized and it’s never been more respected than now. Or apparently more covetable." €€ Tom and Lorenzo Fashion Blog

“现在到底有没有特定的妓女装?” Fitzgerald说,“还是说全部被Forever 21和H&M改良了?”

“Is there a specific sex worker look anymore?” Mr. Fitzgerald said. “Or does it all get pulled from the sexy pile at Forever 21 and H&M?”

可以说政治风气和激进派带动了这些服装在社会上的发展,才会那么的不拘一格。

There are a lot of political implications and activism to these clothes communicating strong invulnerability and outlaws of society.

在这样一个压抑的政治环境下,穿着皮质的性感内衣反映了人们对体制生活的反叛,又或是对性工作者的善意默许。

In an increasingly repressive sociopolitical climate, wearing leather and sexy lingerie can signal rebellion, or a willful identification with the prostitute.

The Marginalist wearing Gucci fur coat and Vinti Andrews suit. Photo by Alicia Shi

Scatafashion series 2, wearing Emillio Pucci. Photo by Elsa

撰文:Abithaa Santhiramathavan 编辑:Yanie Durocher

Photo Source/ 图片来源:

图片来源/Images from: Glamour glaze, Pop sugar, Pinterest, who what wear UK, Telegraph, Independent, Marie Claire

Article is original and created by Abithaa Santhiramathavan, edited by Yanie Durocher

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