牛仔叠穿不是很容易掌握的趋势€€€€穿的不

作者: 太阳服饰  发布:2019-09-05

01牛仔叠穿

Double Denim

Double denim isn’t the easiest trend to pull off €€ and when it goes wrong, boy does it go wrong €€ but get it right and you’re looking at a massive pay off. It’s the menswear equivalent of a handstand press-ups or beef Wellington; only the pros can do it.

牛仔叠穿不是很容易掌握的趋势€€€€穿的不对,就会看起来很土€€€€但是穿对了,你就会看起来非常棒。它对于穿搭者的穿着品味要求比较高,只有专业的人才能正确地穿搭。

“If there’s ever a time to go all out with denim, it’s now,” says Farfetch menswear editor Tony Cook. “Tackle the tricky trend by matching a blue denim jacket with dark, straight-cut jeans for a sophisticated approach, or contrast black skinny jeans with a blue denim shirt for a more casual take.”

“如果说哪一段时间穿牛仔最合适,那就是现在。”Farfetch男装编辑Tony Cook说,“处理这个棘手的流行趋势,黑色的直筒牛仔裤搭配蓝色牛仔夹克是一种富有经验的方法,而相对的以一件蓝色牛仔衬衫搭一条黑色紧身牛仔裤则是一种更休闲的穿法。”

The majority of your efforts should be focused on ensuring both denims are visibly different. Similarly, if wearing two blue washes, break things up with a white tee or grey sweatshirt €€ for perhaps the first time in menswear history, a blue knit or T-shirt isn’t the safe option here.

你主要的努力应该是集中在确保牛仔服明显不同上面。相应的,如果你穿了两件蓝色的衣服,就可以用白色或灰色T恤来打破沉闷。这在男装史上也许是第一次,蓝色针织衫或T恤不是安全的选择。

0290年代牛仔

Nineties Denim

“Classic grey wash jeans are back across arange of fits,” says Topman buying director Rachel Morgans, who recently oversaw a relaunch of the retailer’s denim range. “The wash lends these designs an authentic, vintage feel.”

“经典的灰色水洗牛仔重新回到了合身的范围。”Topman的采购总监Rachel Morgans说,他最近负责重新推出零售商的牛仔系列。“水洗给这些设计品增添了一种真实,复古的感觉。”

The hallmark of this denim trend is a looser fit and a pale finish, so you need to think about the cut and colour of the kit that sits alongside your throwback threads. What this means in practice is that nineties denim jeans feel most at home with colour-block staples like sweat shirts and hoodies, with dark shoes thrown in to add a little visual weight to your bottom half.

这类牛仔趋势的特点是宽松的搭配和淡色的效果,所以你需要考虑的是复古套装的剪裁和颜色。实际上这意味着90年代的牛仔裤搭上像运动服和卫衣这样的拼色主题的服装感觉最好,再穿上一双深色的鞋子可以增加你下半身的视觉重量。

03白色牛仔

White Denim

“White denim is something men tend to stay away from because they can’t imagine how it would fit in their wardrobe,” says stylist Nas Abraham, who has worked with the likes of Barbour and Gap. “In fact, it goes surprisingly well with other pieces.”

“白色牛仔是男人想要远离的东西,因为他们无法想象怎么将它融入自己的衣橱。”曾与Barbour and Gap这样的人合作过的造型师Nas Abraham说,“事实上,白色牛仔和其他衣服搭配效果出奇的好。”

04卷脚牛仔

Denim With Turn-Ups

“By turning up the hem of your jeans, you add a completely different shape to your overall look,” says Abraham. “Because the hem of most jeans never usually sits perfectly above your ankle, a turn-up stops them bunching up above the shoe and exposes a bit of ankle, giving more of a tapered look.” So turn-ups aren’t just an exercise in adding interest to a look, they’ll stop cankles in their tracks, too.

“把你的牛仔裤的下摆翻过来,能给你的整体造型增添完全不同的效果。” Abraham说,“因为绝大多数的牛仔裤的下摆通常都不能完美的置于你的脚踝之上,所以把它们卷至鞋子之上并露出一点脚踝,从而让下摆看上去更像一个锥形。”因此卷起裤脚不仅仅是为了增加外观上的趣味性的一种运用,也是为了露出脚踝。

Turn-ups work best on rigid denim that will more easily retain folds. Try it with a pair of indigo selvedge jeans before finishing with rugged worker or Chelsea boots while it’s still cold, then sneakers when your ankles can handle the breeze.

将裤脚卷起一整块最好是选择比较硬的牛仔裤,这样更容易保持折痕。你可以用一条靛蓝色的包边牛仔裤来试试,当天气寒冷时可以搭配一双结实的工作靴或者切尔西靴,天气微凉时可以搭配一双运动鞋。

05老爹牛仔

Dad Denim

Unsurprisingly, a lot can go wrong with this trend. Think of that loose, slightly faded pair your old man wears when he’s cutting the hedges and you’re on the right track; think Simon Cowell and you’ve gone one step too far. Rewind immediately.

不出所料,这一趋势可能会出现很多问题。如果你想到的是你家老人穿着一条松松垮垮的、略微褪色的牛仔裤修剪树篱的情景,那么你的思维走在了正确的轨道上;如果你想到的是Simon Cowell,那么太远了,立即倒带回来吧。

“There surgence of dad denim is one that’s been championed by high-end designers €€it’s all about an unfussy, unpretentious look, even if the price tag suggest so therwise,” says Reiss brand stylist Paul Higgins. Fortunately, the high street has also muscled in with affordable styles, so you don’t have to drop a mint to look intentionally normal.

Reiss 品牌设计师Paul Higgins 说:“老爹牛仔的复兴受到了高端设计师的推崇€€€€它有着朴实、低调的外观,虽然价格并非如此。”幸运的是,商业街上已经强力推出了价格适中的款式,所以你不必为了追赶潮流而花许多钱。

It’s a denim shade that works particularly well with normcore stablemates like boxy overshirtsand colour block tees. In short: if it looks relaxed and basic, you’re doing dad denim right.

老爹牛仔比较好搭,尤其搭配宽松版衬衫、拼色T恤等简约风的服装。简单的来说:如果老爹牛仔被穿得很休闲和基础,那么你就穿对了。

06破坏牛仔

Distressed Denim

“This season’s distressed denim comes in all forms of ripped, bleached and rawedging,” says Hayley Bushell from the River Island Style Studio. That’s not your cue to try out every type at once, mind.

River Island Style Studio 的Hayley Bushell 说:“这季的破坏牛仔将以撕裂,漂白,毛边等各种形式呈现。”注意,这并不是暗示你要立刻尝试各种类型。

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